Glossary of Shoe Terms
A-E
Arch: High, curved part of the sole of the foot, located between the ball of the foot and the heel
Athletic Bag: Cloth duffel bag used for carrying athletic gear with an adjustable strap
Back Seam: Vertical seam at the center of the back of a shoe or boot
Ball: Padded area of the foot between the big toe and the arch of the foot
Ballerina Flat: Ballet-style flat designed for everyday wear
Boot: Footwear style that extends to the height of the anklebone and above
Break: Natural crease created across the vamp of the shoe from normal wear
Burnish: The process of buffing a shoe surface to acheive an antiquing effect of the leather
Calfskin: Leather created from the skins of very young cows, typically very soft
Cap Toe: Additional piece of leather that covers the toe of a shoe
Circumference: Measurement around the shaft of a boot at the widest part near the top of the shaft
Clog: Footwear style with a closed toe, open back, and a platform sole
Collar: Strip of material stitched to the opening of a shoe
Contoured Footbed: Insole that molds to the shape of the foot
Counter: Stiff material placed at the heel of a shoe between the lining and upper that helps retain the shoe's shape
Curing: Application of chemicals to animal hides in preparation for the tanning process
Demi Boot: Boot style with a shaft typically no taller than the anklebone
D´Orsay: Pump style with one or both sides cut out
Duty Shoe: Footwear often worn by those in the service industry
E.V.A. (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate): Synthetic compound used for outsoles that cushions the foot
Embossed Leather: Design imprinted onto leather and simulated exotic skin
Espadrille: Footwear style with woven rope or similar material covering the wedge or sole
Eyelet: Hole through which a lace is threaded
F-J
Finish: Process by which the final appearance of a shoe is created
Footbed: The insole of a shoe
Forefoot: Area of foot between the ball and toes
Gait: The manner in which a person walks
Galoshes: Waterproof footwear (typically rubber) ideal for rainy weather
Ghillie: Footwear with laces passing through loops or rings attached to the front opening of the shoe
Girth: Shoe circumference measured around the ball of the foot
Goatskin: Leather made from the hide of a goat
Goodyear Welt: Shoe construction with the upper and sole stitched together
Gore: Elastic panel stitched into either side of a shoe's vamp
Grain: Inherent surface pattern of leather
Heel: Refers to both the rear padded area of the underside of the foot as well as the solid part of a shoe that supports the heel cup. Standard measure for heel heights: an 8/8 (low heel) is 1" high; a 16/8 (medium heel) is 2" high; and a 24/8 (high heel) is 3" high. Various types of heels include:
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Baby Louis: Same shape as a Louis heel but a 12/8 or shorter
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Built Heel: Created from layers of leather or fiber with contrasting tones
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Continental: Higher heel with a slightly curved back and flat front
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Cuban: Thick, stacked heel with little or no curvature and tapered at the bottom
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Louis or French: Has a curved back and ranges in height from 16/8 to 24/8
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Stacked: Similar to the built heel but can be created from synthetic & leather materials
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Wedge: Heel of any height, wide as the shoe, follows the shoe contour from toe to heel
Heel Breast: Forward-facing side of the heel
Heel Height: Measured from the bottom surface of the sole to the floor, typically in increments of 1/8 inches
Heel Seat: Part of the shoe directly below where the heel of the foot rests and where the sole and heel are joined together
Hidden Gore: Elastic panel at the shoe front covered by the tongue, providing added comfort
Hide: Skin of a large animal that's treated, tanned, or finished
Hook & Loop Fastener: Closure comprised of two strips of textured fabric that bind when pressed together during use, until they are pulled apart.
Huarache: Flat sandal or shoe with a woven leather upper
Imitation Leather: Synthetic material that looks like leather
Injection Molded Construction: Sole that's created by injecting melted PVC or similar material into the sole mold
Inseam: Hidden seam of a welted shoe that holds together the welt, upper, lining, and insole
Insole: Lining that runs the full length of the inside of the shoe
Instep: Upper center section of the foot between the toes and ankle
Jelly Shoes: Footwear style made of PVC
Jodhpur Boots: Low-cut boots used for equestrian activities
K-O
Kidskin: Soft porous leather created from the hide of young goats
Kiltie: Decorative fringed tongue over the vamp of a shoe
Kipskin: Middle-grade leather created from the skins of young cattle that are larger than calves but not fully grown
Laces: Material strung through the eyelets of a shoe that pull it closed and adjust the girth
Lambskin: Leather created from the skin of young sheep
Last: Metal, wood, or plastic form used to create the shape of a shoe
Leather: Skin of an animal, typically with the hair removed and tanned for use
Lift: One of the several layers of leather or leather-board used to make a heel
Lining: Inside material of a shoe
Lizard: Leather made from the skin of a lizard
Loafer: Slip-on footwear style
Lug Sole: Heavy tread rubber sole
Mary Jane: Low-heeled shoe with strap across the instep
Mid-sole: Layer of material between outsole and innersole used for reinforcement or cushioning
Moccasin: Footwear style with a single piece of leather for the bottom that's stitched around a last
Monk Strap: Closed shoe with a wide strap across the instep that buckles at the side
Mule: Backless closed-toe slippers or shoes
Napa: Supple version of sheepskin leather
Nubuck: Lightweight supple leather used on the upper of the shoe
Orthotic: Orthopedic insole designed to cushion and stabilize the foot
Outsole: Bottom outer sole of a shoe
Oxford: Traditional term that describes a low shoe laced or tied over the instep
P-S
Patent Leather: Glossy leather with a shiny appearance
Pebbled Grain: Embossed-leather grain finish resembling a pebbled surface
Penny Loafer: Slip-on shoe style with a slit over the instep
Pigskin Leather: Leather made from the skin of pigs
Pinking: Saw-tooth shaped edging applied to the trim of shoes
Piping: Decorative narrow strip of leather that follows the seam
Pitch: Angle of the back part of the heel where it meets the sole
Platform Shoe: Features a thicker sole at the front and a high heel
Pump: Low-cut women's shoe moderate in heel height
Quarter: Rear portion of a shoe that covers the heel and sides, often joined at the back seam
Quarter Lining: Lining of the rear part of a shoe
Riding Boot: Designed equestrian activities, typically knee high with goring and a low heel
Rim: Part of the shoe where the foot enters, also called collar or top line
Saddle Oxford: Oxford-style shoe with a saddle across the vamp, often in a contrasting color
Safety Shoe: Designed for wear in an industrial setting, usually waterproof with steel toes
Sandal: Footwear style with open toe and back, held together by strips of leather or fabric
Scotch Grain: Embossed leather with a heavy, pebbled look
Shaft Height: Measured from the middle of the arch up the inside of the boot to the top of the shaft
Shearling: Sheepskin or lambskin with the wool still attached used for lining
Sheepskin: Skin from sheep, either with or without the wool attached
Shoe Sizes: Variation between full sizes is 1/3 of an inch, while the difference between half sizes is 1/6 of an inch
Silicone: Slippery polymer material used to waterproof shoes
Sipes: Specific razor-cut pattern in the outsoles of deck shoes that help disperse water and decrease slipping
Slide: Footwear style with an open toe and back with a band across the toe
Slingback: A shoe that's secured on the foot with a strap at the back of heel
Slip Last: Simple way to make shoes in which the last is forced into the upper and then stitched to the sole
Slip-on: Footwear style that goes on easily with no further adjustment
Slipper: Flat shoe that's easily slipped on, meant for indoor wear
Smooth Leather: Any leather that's smooth on the surface without pebbling or noticeable grain
Snakeskin: Leather made from the skin of snakes with a scaly texture
Sneaker: Athletic shoe made of canvas and features a rubber sole
Sock Liner: Insole of the interior of a shoe
Sole: Bottom part of the shoe not including the heel
Sole Leather: Any heavy leather used for the sole of a shoe
Spectator: Shoe characterized by two materials often of different colors or materials
Split Leather: Type of leather used in shoes made from the lower layers of a hide that's split away from the upper or grain
Suede: Leather with a soft napped surface
Synthetic Materials: Also known as man-made materials; not genuine leather
T-Z
Tassel: Rope and knot ornament typically found on the vamp of a loafer or mocassin
Tencel: Cellulose fiber made from wood pulp that's environmentally friendly to produce
Thong: Sandal with a V-strap that connects to the sole of a shoe between the big toe and second toe and at the sides of the foot
Throat: Main opening of a shoe extending from the vamp to the ankle
Tread: Refers to the design of the sole or the way a sole is worn
Upper: Upper part of the shoe not including the sole
Upper Leather: any leather used for making shoe uppers
Vamp: Front part of a shoe upper that covers the toes and part of the foot
Vinyl: Also known as polyvinyl chloride (P.V.C.) — a shiny plastic often used for coating shoes
Wedge Heel: Heel that extends from the back of the shoe to the ball of the shoe, following its contour
Wellington: Pull-on boots with no trim often made of rubber
Welt: Strip of leather sewn between the insole and outsole
Width: Typically measured in letters (AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, E, EEE, EEEE) and refers to the width of the shoe last as measured at the ball of the foot, defined in 1/8 inch increments
Wing Tip: A wing-shaped toe cap
